The future is now, Convert any internal combustion engine into a hybrid, save money on gas by increasing your gas milage from 10 to 50% depending on modifactaions and vehicle and reduce your emissions greatly.
Current waterfuel and watercar market mostly sells hard-to apply textbooks OR fuel savers/fuel additives. Good ones, no doubt. I'm not saying these are necessarily bad deals. But here’s the problem: The best inventions and technologies have been lost due to suppression and fears.
The H2O Water4Gas device (“Vaporizer”) shown is a technology some 85 years old - we have official US patents from the 1920’s describing this technology as the common knowledge of those days! The device simply adds water vapor to the normal mixture of gasoline and air, and has most of the benefits of its bigger brother, the HHO device.
Some say it has its origins in the fog of WW II, where it is said to have been used on U.S. aircrafts during that war. One story has it that as pilots flew their aircraft close to the surface of the water, they noticed a dramatic increase in the power and performance of their engines. For reasons that remain obscure, this technology has never reached the public.
What we have done is researched today’s technology and SIMPLIFIED the technology using readily available parts and materials, to bring you devices that are both very simple, very affordable and at the same time very POWERFUL. Our development also makes it easy for you to use, maintain and even duplicate our Water4Gas technology if you choose to.
“WHAT IS HAPPENING INSIDE MY ENGINE???”
Adding Brown's Gas to the fuel/air mixture has the immediate effect of increasing the octane rating of any fuel.“Octane Rating” means how much that fuel can be compressed before it ignites. Low grade gasoline (what's called “Regular” or 87 octane in California) ignites faster than higher octane fuels. It takes less compression to ignite. This fact causes the gasoline to ignite before TDC (Top Dead Center, the point where the piston is at the highest point of its motion), making it less efficient because the explosion of gas fumes pushes the piston down and out of sequence (it's too early so it goes a bit in reverse) and therefore the “pinging” noise and less power from Regular gasoline. Brown's gas or water vapor causes regular low-grade fuel to ignite more slowly, making it perform like a high octane gasoline! A higher octane rating means stronger horse power due to combustion occuring much closer to TDC, where it has a chance to turn into mechanical torque (rotary push) the right way and without pinging Each piston transfers more energy during its combustion cycle, so combustion becomes more efficient – as well as SMOOTH. More efficient combustion translates to less fuel being consumed.
You see, this technology does not mean we're running on water, but introducing HHO simply and effectively creates the effect of using the same bad gasoline in a more economical way. It supplements and actually CORRECT the behavior of gasoline. Free energy does exist, but it has to be triggered by something. In this case, the interaction between water and gasoline is how it happens.
ENERGY FACTS:
Water “conceals” a lot of energy inside. Let's examine how much.
Compared to the energy of one pound of gasoline (let's call it 100%), the energy in a pound of Hydrogen is only 80% - while Brown's Gas of the same weight has a whopping 300% of the energy!
When separating it into its Brown's Gas state, each Gallon of water expands into gigantic proportions – 1866 Gallons of combustible gas! That's why so much effect on the engine, while such little water is being consumed per week.
WHY THE TIME HAS COME FOR THIS TECHNOLOGY
HHO gas mentioned above goes by many other names, such as Oxy-Hydrogen, hydroxy (short for hydroxygen) or di-hydroxy, Brown's Gas, green gas, waterfuel, etc. It's very different from pure Hydrogen. HHO has great advantages over pure Hydrogen – and is the only one of these two that qualifies for “Free energy” - but let's have a look at both options, shall we?
In June 2005, a world record MPG has been achieved by students of the Federal Polytechnical School of Zurich, Switzerland – using Hydrogen – for an eye-popping 12,665 MPG! This is not a typo. They ran a test car for 13 miles on... 1.02 grams of Hydrogen.
The world now knows that Hydrogen is powerful, and everybody's talking about it. Unfortunately, Hydrogen-powered as well as hybrid cars have not matured yet. Their MPG performance is not as great as expected. And even worse, Hydrogen pressure tanks in cars and in fuel stations are a huge safety hazard – this stuff is E.X.P.L.O.S.I.V.E like hell. It gets even worse when you hear about Hydrogen factories – they pollute the environment so badly, that the ecological apparent advantage of “clean” cars is immediately exposed as a lie... Too bad.
The solution is Hydrogen-On-Demand systems. These are systems or devices such as Water4Gas that offer the safest and most economical solution: we produce Hydrogen when we need it, rather than producing it in an expensive and polluting factory, then delivering it in huge trucks and storing it unsafely in high-pressure gas tanks.
Hydrogen-On-Demand is much better for the environment. It is MUCH safer for the driver and passengers. I don't want my family sitting right on top of a potential super explosive bomb on the way to a picnic or birthday!
Right now, today, is a prime time for Water4Gas technology. Not that it's new. No. It's been here for many years. But in the past it was EASY for Big Petrol to suppress this technology. That’s because inventors were isolated and vulnerable. They could be bribed, threatened or shot dead. Also, since it took these hard working fellows a lifetime of effort to achieve workable inventions, they felt they had to keep their cards close to chest. Secrecy was detrimental – they became a target!!!
Today, on the other hand, we have very fast communication lines such as email, cellphones and the Internet. Inventions from wise developers, who also like sharing their knowledge rather than secrecy, fly back and forth and all out at mind boggling speeds. Exchange-exchange-exchange is the order of the day. Some of our water-car email lines are jammed with hundreds of inventions and invention updates each and every week! With this speed and sharing spirit in mind, it will become clear to you why this technology is now unstoppable.
Change is inevitable! Water is the fuel of the future. Period. But we mean no violent revolution. We take it bit by bit so people have enough time to absorb the new facts of life and the science behind this tech, and so businesses have enough time to rearrange themselves around this changing market. Free energy does not mean that whole industries have to close down. They will have so much more to do now: new car models, new power plants, new homes and home appliances (to heat ourselves and operate the house energy lines using water), and so forth.
A quiet revolution is already happening, where everybody will eventually win because we’ll be saving the planet from destruction and energy depletion. Save the trees, the oceans and above all the atmosphere! And there's a lot of money to be made, both for small and big business.
Benifits of Hydorgen Generator:
Improve your gas mileage by up to 50%. This includes both city and highway driving conditions.
Eliminate harmful exhaust emission that pollute the environment and contribute to global warming. Your engine will ADD oxygen to the environment instead of polluting it.
Greatly enhance engine power and performance.
Remove carbon deposits and prevent future carbon build up.
Reduce the operating temperature of the engine and waste heat into the environment.
You will notice a calmer, quieter and much smoother engine operation and smoother gearshifts. This is due to the effect water has on the combustion cycle inside your engine.
Enjoy a longer life expectancy of your engine, especially the pistons and valves.
The Generators with installation kit can be purchased from me for $150 to make things easier and for those who are baffled by what they see under the hood of a car, we even offer installation for an additional cost.The older the car the easier the installation with the least modifications. Newer computer controlled cars require a few more minor modifications that requires more time. Typical installation is around 1 hour for older and 1-2 hours on newer vehicles, including tuning. Order's and questions can be sent to:
People wishing to build their own systems can purchase the detailed information needed to build and install low cost HHO generators for a very low price of $100. This is a membership to a support group and easy to under stand online book, complete with support, parts list locator and technical information of over 90 pages of facts and figures. For the do-it-yourselfer build as many as you want with up to five variations for different applications including big rig applications with multiple generators as well as other proven fuel saving modifications. This web site also has people from all over the world discussing other forms of energy like ZeroPoint and Conectic applications, blue prints of inventions only dreamed about.
GO TO THE OFFICIAL WEB SITE FOR MORE DETAILS AND PURCHASE INFORMATION
UPDATE: June 08, we are working on wear to find the various parts, testing and manufacturing process determining what works and what does not. Early tests indicate the precise type of wire is needed, a certain grade of stainless is required we are learning the hard way.(All else fails read instructions eh!) The important thing is we are learning more and more details the more we work with it, there are far to many variable to determine exact results for different models but in preliminary testing I have drawn the conclusion that dual generators are required for V8's. (At least on my tired old beast) Since adding the second generator, power and mileage has increase quite significantly on my 350cid. Water levels need to be filled every week though, as it does seem to eat water, luckily it's free.
June 23: recent manufacturing up grades have lead to a more efficient with greater volume of HHO produced. Larger diameter of wire results in more production, another advancement is type of wire wrap, I stumbled upon a different technic, wrapping two wire first then taking a pair of wrapped and wrapping those together, this results in more surface area aswell as tinny gaps in the wrap resulting in the effect of having the production of two generators in one. limiting testing is all the time we can afford unfortunately, and this is not something that we are going to have all the answers too right off the bat.
A; the latest wrap design creating more surface area, using the same amount of wire, no more than four
can be used or it gets un manageable, we tried 6 but was to stiff, also creates to much heat for small
container.
B; a four wire wrap, smooth looks like a cable, seems to work good
C; double wrap, the first three are using the 419 garde stainless steel available on line.
D; this is stainless wire available at Home Depot, wrong grade,to stiff, small, and corroded fast.
E; some wire I found in my shop, looks stainless, but when I tried, it only lasted a week before it fell to
pieces. This was when I first heard about these generators on line, figured I knew enough to make
one with out any instruction.....wrong!
Benefits of the HHO (browns gas) that I have seen for certain are as follows;
- increases octane rating of your fuel, no more pinging going up hills
- increased mileage, the old van is getting 25mpg now as it use to be 20
- increase in power, old van goes up hills no problem now
- engine runs cooler, pulling heavy loads she use to over heat once in a while, not any more.
- reduced emissions, creates a more efficient burn of fuel so less goes out the tail pipe.
MY VERSION:
I have made a few alterations to the basic hook ups, I have incorporated a quick connect electrical connectors, benefits are easy removal and also it is beneficial to switch positive and negative as build up on the positive electrode results, by switching electrodes polarity, they self clean any buildup.
I removed the blow off valve ( which was pretty much useless) and converted it's space into a "fill plug" as water levels drop dramatically so toping up the level is as easy as removing the plug and using a syringe to fill the solution easily.
I also installed rotating vacume connections to help with ease of connection for different applications.
INSTALATION INSTRUCTIONS:
Unit consists of a jar, containing the positive and negative electrodes connected to a lid with a double vacuum hook up, a filler plug and a airbubbler supply. units should be checked on regular basis for leaks at conections and air tight fit. this is easily done by tipping the unit up side down while plugging the vacume connections, any water escaping should be noted and repaired. GOOP Glue is available at most parts and hardware stores.
MOUNTING THE UNIT;
The kit comes with a metal strap that is bendable, form it around three sides of the jar with the ends bent out for screws to go through for mounting. I use self taping screws to make it easier although a 1/8th drill bit works aswell. done over tighten the unit, I like to leave it snug so it can be lifted out for servicing with out removable of the screws.
Mount the unit under the hood, and in a location low enough to clear the hood, and also close to the power supply is beneficial but not mandatory. It is not recommended to mount the unit directly near heat sources if possible except in the case of winter conditions when it could be beneficial.
Electrical connections consist of a ground wire, which I connect to a mounting screw used to mount the unit as long as it is mounted to metal. The second wire is connected to a switchable 12v power supply, this means the power only comes on when the vehicle is running> This is Very important as if the power is left on the unit will continue to generate gas that could result in an explosion.
A inline fuse is supplied and is to be mounted on the positive wire supply
Power supply should come straight from the fuse box as most manufactures have switchable accessories plugs in the fuse box. Power can be supplied from under hood accessories but beware draining power from things such as heaters or lights can over heat circuits so it's best to stick to the fuse box power supply. Confirm the power is switchable by turning the key on and off making sure the power shuts off when the key is in the off position.
VACUME :
Two ports are available on the unit, a vacume source must be located on the engine, look for vacume lines going to and from accessories. There's a large line leading to the brakes, DO NOT TOUCH THIS LINE!
Older vehicles have plenty of ports, There are two types of vacume supply. PORTED(no vacume until the throttle is opened), and MANIFOLD( vacume at the port until the throttle is opened) carefully remove a vacume line to see if it is a ported or manifold vacume while the engine is running. It is best to hook one vacume type to each port on the unit. some times only one vacume line is required, in that case the other should be left plugged. A basic Y or T connectors are supplied to splice into an vacume line, different varieties are available at local parts stores to fit your need if the ones supplied don't fit.
If in the rare event there are no vacume lines to splice into, the unit lines can be inserted directly into the air cleaner intake housing. Special connectors are available at parts stores or simply drill a 5/16 hole and insert the hose and seal with "goop" glue available at parts and hardware stores. The key is to get an air tight seal as to not let dirt into the engine and create a tight seal to draw in the gas.
START UP:
Once the unit is fully installed, the wires and hoses connected, fill the unit with (preferably) distilled water, and add 1 tea spoon of baking powder, stir well, leaving about an inch from the top, (tap water will work but will turn brown sooner)
BE CAREFULL~To much baking soda will cause the unit to melt down, make sure it's a tea not table spoon.
The mixture is 1 teaspoon per liter of water, don't go any higher than 1.5 per liter or damage will result.
Before starting the engine;
- remove the negative ground on the quick disconnect
-check the air bubbler valve, crack the valve one revolution from closed
Vehicles equipped with Oxygen sensors need to be wrapped on the out side up past the wire with a bit or insulation (pink will work but rockwool is recommended) then wrapped with tin foil numerous ties, then wrapped with metal foil duct tape, found at hardware stores.
Start the engine, check the unit, you should see air bubbles coming from the bottom of the mixture, open the throttle a little to see if vacume bubbles are still reacting. once this is confirmed shut of the engine, hook the ground back up, turn the key to the run position with out starting the engine, the unit should be in the electrolysis state. Start engine and let run for a few minutes, carefully to listen for any vacume leaks or any thing out of the ordinary, Make sure all lines, electrical and vacume are away from exhaust and heat sources.
